Theatre in London: A Must-See Experience | 在伦敦，要看戏

Illustrated by Tian Tian

Written by: Ding Xuan | 丁宣

Translated by: Hanhan Xu

In the theatre, I smile, applaud, ponder and pay tribute.

My favourite pastime in London is indulging in theatrical performances at century-old venues, where I enjoy everything from dramas and musicals to stage plays and live rap shows.

During my time in the UK, I’ve found immense enjoyment in attending theatre performances and rarely miss shows featuring prominent actors or renowned theatre companies. While I typically base my choices on critics’ reviews, there are times when a play’s title alone draws me in, hoping for a soul-stirring surprise. The theatre arts section in newspapers is essential reading for me, and my inbox is always filled with newsletters about upcoming shows, thanks to my subscriptions to numerous theatre websites. My passion for theatre fuels all of this, as you can imagine.

British stage plays have a long-standing tradition of continuous development and innovation. They cover a vast array of topics, from Medieval Biblical drama from the Middle Ages and Shakespearean works to contemporary social issues, blending aesthetics with modern technology. Over time, the form, venues and social significance of British theatre have evolved alongside historical progress. While I am far from an expert in this field and consider myself just an audience member, I have a deep appreciation for the captivating experience offered by live performances, beautifully designed stages, and live music crafted specifically for these productions.

I still vividly remember a winter night in London, years ago, when I left the theatre after a show and stepped back into the world outside. Wrapped in my overcoat, I walked home through the gentle rain, shimmering under the glow of yellow streetlights, with the lively clacking of my boots on the cobblestone alleyways of the West End. The melodies of the performance still lingered in my mind. It was a moment of pure joy and contentment, so surreal that I couldn’t help but wonder if life itself was as meticulously choreographed as a play.

As a child, I lived with my grandparents, both avid readers of Western literature. After spending my youth immersed in English novels, life eventually brought me here, to Britain – specifically to the theatres of London, adorned with red velvet and golden wood carvings. I found myself discovering new stories, meeting fresh characters, laughing, and being inspired by thought- provoking dialogue. Life, it seems, has a way of weaving stories we never could have anticipated.

In London, plays typically have long runs at a single theatre. Stage sets and cast members often remain at the same theatre for extended periods – months, years, or even decades. As a case in point, a theatre near my home is proudly celebrating the 70th anniversary of The Mousetrap – a crime thriller – this year. The same play is performed almost every day of the week, sometimes even twice a day. Theatre entrances are always brightly lit, bustling with people eager to watch. Inside, there are always shows playing. An interesting aspect of London is that to become a cab driver, one must memorise all the productions that theatres are hosting as part of a test. If you want to take a cab to visit the theatre, all you need to do is let the driver know the play you are going to watch. If you do not believe me, ask a cabbie and see for yourself.

In my experience attending numerous plays in London – ranging from dramas and operas to ballets, pantomimes and experimental theatre – I’ve never seen a sparse audience. Sitting in those antique theatre chairs, it’s clear that theatre is a fundamental part of British life and culture. This vibrant theatre scene consistently draws in diverse audiences, fuelling the passion and talent of playwrights, set designers and actors alike. For any foreigner, it’s an experience not to be missed.

Many renowned actors from around the world take great pride in having performed in plays and musicals in London. They view it as an invaluable opportunity to refine their craft and receive immediate feedback from a discerning audience. I’ve witnessed performances by distinguished actors who gave their absolute best on stage, earning the admiration and respect of every enthusiastic audience member who had come to appreciate their artistry.

Seeing a play in the UK isn’t cheap. For popular or new productions, especially those featuring famous actors, ticket prices can range from tens to hundreds of pounds, depending on the seating. Even for long-running or niche performances, it’s rare to find tickets in the single digits. While queuing for entry, I often think about how buying a ticket and attending a play is a significant expense for many. This makes the dedication of the cast all the more touching – they always strive to deliver captivating performances to ensure the audience feels they’ve gotten their money’s worth.

I have a Welsh friend who works as a driver. Despite his muscular build and rugged job, he has a heart of gold. He chooses simpler, more affordable coffee and snacks to save money, yet he never misses a chance to take his wife to the theatre when she joins him for the weekend in London. He often tells me, with a beaming smile, about how much they enjoy these outings together. His joy is infectious and serves as a reminder of the simple pleasures in life.

Some people attend the theatre alone. Occasionally, I am one of them, finding joy in my own company. In my view, a night in the theatre is best spent with friends, family or a partner. But one can also find pleasure in watching performances alone if the experience is about appreciating the performances and getting immersed in the stories. There’s no need to compromise on the choice of plays or to dissect each other’s thoughts afterwards. It’s simply about being present in the moment and enjoying the performance, free from distractions.

Between 2020 and 2021, the world ground to a halt, and theatres were among the first to close, delivering a devastating blow to the careers and livelihoods of countless performers in the industry. London’s once-bustling streets became eerily quiet, yet now and then, the silence was broken by the haunting melodies of singers or the sight of impromptu performances by professional artists. Though they had turned to street performances out of necessity, their live art brought a much-needed touch of warmth and vibrancy to an otherwise frozen, lifeless world.

In 2022, COVID restrictions were lifted in London and performances gradually resumed. I picked a new play to celebrate my return as an audience member. The play was Pride & Prejudice * (*sort of), a niche comedy with an all- female cast. I loved everything about it – the plot, the acting, and the creativity involved. When the audience gave a standing ovation at the end, I found myself smiling with tears of joy, not just because of the play, but the sight of the artists back on stage.

As I write this, winter has just begun in London. By four or five in the afternoon, it’s already dark and cold, with chilling winds and rain driving people into the warmth of indoor spaces. I can’t help but think that such grim weather must have played a role in shaping British literature and theatre. Reading by the fireplace is a solitary pleasure, while attending a play is a shared delight. Since joy is always greater when shared, why not head to the theatre and immerse yourself in the experience?

About the author

Ding Xuan shuttles between the East and West, residing outside of China. She is passionate about the arts and humanities.

我鼓掌。我微笑。我沉思。我致敬。

我在伦敦，最钟爱的享受，莫过于看戏。话剧，音乐剧，舞台表演，现场说唱……我安坐在百年老剧院里，入戏出戏，乐此不疲。

看戏是我旅居英国的最大乐趣。伦敦上演的戏剧，只要是有声望的演员、有话题的剧创团队，我几乎无一错过。大多时候会因为一众剧评人的口碑，有的放矢地奔往剧场买戏票，去感受、去欣赏；偶尔未读评论，直接凭着对剧名的感觉买票，如果看完后仍在对剧中人物惺惺相惜，便是喜出望外。报纸杂志的剧场艺术版，我当然每期必读，也早早注册了剧院戏票网站的会员，邮箱里时时会有新戏介绍、剧目评论的文宣。可见，我真爱看戏，也乐在其中。

英国舞台戏剧历史悠久并不断发展创新。从中古时期演绎的圣经故事，到莎士比亚的人性刻画，到现代当代的社会议题和美学、科技的表达与创新结合，英式戏剧一直随着历史进程也在其形式、场所、社会价值方面和技术层面不断变化。对于戏剧科目论述我不敢多言。我做个观众、看客和戏迷，一场一场和艺术家们即时经历人生片段的现场演绎，沉迷于演员一气呵成的表演，欣赏舞美设计师精心创意的舞台，聆听乐队配合剧情发展的现场演奏。这怎能不是一种感官与心神的享受？

记得多年前的一个冬天。我驻留伦敦，闲来夜里去看戏。散场后，意犹未尽的我裹在大衣里走回家。靴子踏在伦敦西区老巷的石子路上，眼前是黄色路灯光束照射下恰似绒毛一般的细雨，听着自己赶着回家的轻快脚步声，合着还萦绕在脑海的歌声，那种感觉是出戏又入世，快乐又满足，难以置信到有些梦幻。不觉想这人生，也如戏般精巧安排吗？幼年的我，一直跟着爱好西方文学的爷爷奶奶生活，那么多英伦小说听过读过，居然就一路走来，来到英国，走进了厚厚红色丝绒衬着金色木雕的伦敦剧院，看这里更多的故事和人物，被更多的笑声感染，让更精彩的对话引领思考和感悟。昨日哪知今朝，“人生如戏”难以预料。

伦敦戏剧也是一出剧长驻一家剧院。舞台背景、演职人员在这个剧院驻留、工作很长时间，几个月、几年，甚至几十年的都有（今年我家附近一个剧院在骄傲宣扬他们的罪案悬疑剧《捕鼠器》（The Mousetrap）迎来第 70 个演出年头）。同样一出剧，几乎一周六天每天上演，有时甚至下午晚上两场。各个剧院门口永远灯火通明，永远人潮涌动，永远有戏看，永远有人要看戏。伦敦有个有意思的地方，出租车司机资格有个必考题目是熟记各个剧院的剧目。你坐出租车去看戏，只需要告诉司机剧名，他就能把你送到那个剧场。不信，你试试。

我在伦敦大概看过几十出戏了吧。话剧、歌剧、舞剧，甚至默剧。无论是悲剧、喜剧，还是悬疑剧甚或实验剧，我从未见过稀稀拉拉的观众席。我坐在挤挤挨挨的精致老旧排椅上想：看戏真是英国人生活的重要部分，也是非英国人绝对值得来感受的英伦文化。正是这些源源不断的观众，激励着剧作者、布景艺术家、演员们不竭的创作热情和才华。

世界上很多有名的影视剧演员，都以曾经在伦敦演出过话剧、音乐剧为荣，认为是沉淀自己、磨练演技、接触观众的最直接的机会。我看过不少名气和修养足以让人肃然起敬的大演员，真实活跃在舞台上，极尽所能、忘我投入，展现才华与风采。我环顾四周，也承认演创人员的竭心尽力，就是对满场花钱买票又热情专注的观众们最大的尊重。

英国看戏并不便宜。好戏、新戏、名角，票价按座位等次从几十到几百英镑不等。演得久或是小众的戏，再差的座也不会少于两位数的价钱。这也让我常常在入场排队时默想，买票进剧场绝非对谁都是轻而易举。看官们的专注和尽兴，便是最大程度地享受了这艺术的价值。我深为这样的价值观所动。我想起我们一位司机先生，他是每次咖啡小吃都尽量简化自己需求的威尔士好男人，有着铁塔一般的身型、奶油一般的善心。太太每次来伦敦和他过周末，两人必有看戏的安排。每次看他笑逐颜开地说“我和太太上剧院呀”，我都会被传染似地开心起来，深以为乐。

有时候我会留意到独自去看戏的人，偶尔我也是，那算是自得其乐吧。理想中的“晚上去剧院”，应该是个娱乐项目，当然有亲朋好友或者爱人伴侣为上佳。但如果纯为欣赏演技、感受故事，一个人就有一个人的乐趣：不用迁就彼此的需求，不用交代自己的心情，心无旁骛，专注舞台，自在大焉。

在 2020 至 2021 年，全球突然按下暂停键。剧院场所的公开演出当然最早被禁。所有现场戏剧演职人员的工作停摆，当然影响生计，非常悲哀。那两年在伦敦冷清的街口，运气好会听到非常动听的歌声，会看到非常专业的演奏……没有演出的艺术家，虽然在街头户外表演情非得已，但正是他们的现场艺术活力，才能给被冻住的世界带来一点流动的暖意。

2022 年伦敦宣布疫情管控结束，演出也慢慢恢复了。记得我欢天喜地挑了个当时的新戏去庆祝自己作为观众的返场。那是一出全由女演员担纲的喜剧，名字叫《有那么几分傲慢与偏见》［Pride & Prejudice (Sort Of )］，属于小众戏。剧情、演技、创意，我都非常喜欢。当最后全场起立为谢幕演员鼓掌时，我居然笑着流泪了，还真不是单因为这出戏，我是太开心看到艺术家们重返熠熠生辉的舞台上和观众们互致敬意了！

写这篇文字的时候，伦敦刚入冬，下午四五点已经够黑够冷，冷风细雨直把人往暖融融的室内赶。这天气也绝对成就了英国的文学和戏剧吧。壁炉前的阅读是独乐，剧场里的欣赏是众乐。众乐乐吧。走，看戏去！

作者介绍

丁宣，东西方之间往返，旅居海外，钟爱人文艺术。