Days of Commuting to an Island by Boat | 坐大船，去小岛，跑通勤
Written by: Ji Yang | 纪杨
Translated by: Zhang Bing
Editor’s Note:
This article is excerpted from Haha! Britain — a charitable bilingual publication co-produced by The Mothers’ Bridge of Love (MBL) and River Cam Breeze. The book is a lively collaboration between 42 Chinese authors living in the UK and 36 university-based volunteer translators. With wit and warmth, the stories capture the everyday realities of Chinese communities in Britain, offering an honest look at the cultural clashes, humour, and adaptation that arise in the space between Chinese and British ways of life. Haha! Britain has been warmly endorsed by several well-known figures in UK-China relations, including Stephen Perry (former Chairman of the 48 Group Club), Luise Schäfer OBE (former British diplomat and Chamber of Commerce chair), Professor Hugo De Burgh (former BBC editor and academic), and British scholar Martin Jacques. The book’s title was handwritten by celebrated British-Chinese artist Qu Leilei, its cover illustrated by bestselling Chinese author and poet Feng Tang, and the postscript contributed by Xue Mo, a prominent voice in contemporary Chinese literature.
Illustrated by Tian Tian
Six years ago, in June, I flew from Beijing to London. It was my first time in the UK. When my plane was hovering over London, waiting for clearance to land, I tried to look out the window in search of those well-known landmarks I’d heard so much about, like the London Eye and Big Ben. Unfortunately, I couldn’t see anything clearly. However, I did see a river, which I knew was the Thames. It wound its way from the east to the west, splitting London into two. For someone like me visiting this famous city for the first time, anything familiar, even if not completely recognizable, would bring me some comfort and warmth.
I spent my first night in London in a hotel with the postcode SW5. In the UK, a postcode can tell you almost everything about a place, its owners and visitors: the degree of prosperity of the area, the social standing of the owner, the taste of visitors, and much more. The hotel was about a 10-minute-walk away from the London Bridge, justifying the high price of £120 per night. Although it was the cheapest hotel in this area, it was still a significant expense for me. And the room was so small that I had to choose between opening the door and opening my luggage.
I slept soundly and didn’t learn until the next morning that there had been a terrorist attack on London Bridge that evening. On June 3rd 2017, terrorists rammed their car into a crowd, wounding and killing many. That day, I took the train from Waterloo station to Southampton, heading towards the Isle of Wight, the southernmost island in the UK. Farewell, London. I had to leave this famous metropolis with fear and confusion before even beginning to savour its beauty and richness.
My story of commuting by boat begins in Southampton, the largest city in Hampshire. It sits on the very southern tip of England and has ferries to the Isle of Wight. Upon arrival, I dropped off my luggage and set off in the direction of the pier. I came across an elderly English gentleman who was probably in his 70s. Since he seemed like a local and in good spirits, I decided to ask him about the pier. We were standing in the middle of a sunken square on Southampton High Street, between West Quay and the old city gate. He pointed to the gate, which was in the opposite direction to the railway station, and told me to go to Town Quay and take the Red Funnel. Due to my limited vocabulary, I failed to grasp the term “Town Quay”. I had expected to hear words like “port”, “dock”, “pier”, “jetty”, “harbour” or “marina” – anything that has even the slightest connection to boarding a boat. However, I didn’t hear any of those. Also, I didn’t expect a big city like Southampton to be called just a “town” in English. I later learned that whether a place is called a “town” or a “city” depends mainly on whether it accommodates a cathedral. Winchester, for example, despite being smaller than Southampton, has Winchester Cathedral and thus merits being called a city. However, in my understanding back then, a “town” was a rural area larger than a village but smaller than a city, as is true in China. Secondly, the word “quay” and “tourist wharf ” were beyond my vocabulary. And besides, what on earth are “Red Chimney” and “Red Funnel”?
Fortunately, I found my way to the pier. I bought a return ferry ticket at Red Funnel’s ticket office and boarded the fast ferry to the Isle of Wight. My smooth journey persuaded me that everything was smaller than I had envisioned, yet more convenient than I had imagined.
The Isle of Wight is promoted as an “Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty”. It is a diamond-shaped island floating in the southernmost part of England. The northern part faces mainland Britain, while the other end lies across the English Channel from Normandy, France. The 17-mile-long tidal river Medina, flowing from the north to the centre of the Isle of Wight, divides the Cowes into East Cowes and (West) Cowes.
Finally, I settled in Southampton and began my routine of commuting three times a week by either the fast ferry or the large ferry. There are two routes to the Isle of Wight: one is by the fast ferry (Red Jet) to (West) Cowes, and the other was by the large triple-deck ferry – the first deck for cargo and vehicles, the second for passengers, and the third offering scenic views to East Cowes on the eastern bank of the Medina River. The Medina River stretches from the Solent, a strait between the Isle of Wight and mainland Great Britain, all the way to Newport at the heart of the island.
Since I worked in (West) Cowes, I had to cross the Medina River if I took the large ferry.
On the first day of commuting by ferry, the 20-minute journey was quite bumpy. I looked out the window at the moving clouds, full of excitement, but also uncertainty.
In the first few weeks, I took the fast ferry to save time. Most passengers were fellow commuters. Just off the pier is the High Street in (West) Cowes, a pedestrian street paved with black stone that can get particularly slippery on a rainy day. After passing five or six stores along this dark stripe of stone, I turned right when I saw Costa Coffee, a second-hand store and a Marks & Spencer. Following Seaview Road and Moorgreen Road, which wind uphill, I then turned left at No. 54. Initially, the streets and low houses all looked the same to me. The only way for me to avoid getting lost was to drill those street names and house numbers into my head.
It was quite different from my previous work experience. When I was in developing countries, I worked in towering skyscrapers in bustling metropolises like Shanghai and Beijing, followed by a stint in Dubai. Now, in a developed country, I found myself traveling to a remote little industrial park on an isolated island. In the UK, smaller companies and factories are usually nestled in small industrial parks. Next to my office was the warehouse area, opposite a baseball field. Looking around, nothing blocked my view of the sea, which was only a ten-minute walk away.
After fully weighing the pros and cons, I eventually decided to switch to the large ferry. This decision extended my commute from twenty minutes to an hour, but the benefits were also clear: first, unlike the fast ferry which would bounce on waves or get cancelled in high winds, the large ferry was safe and steady. Also, the large ferry was cheaper. With an annual pass, the one-way fare was less than £10. The large ferry also had wi-fi, a bar and a viewing deck, which gave me a holiday vibe on my way to the office. The idea of taking the large ferry was actually inspired by my colleague Matthew. Apart from the longer travel time, the only other inconvenience was that I had to take another boat to cross the Medina River to reach (West) Cowes.
This meant taking the chain boat, the only transport linking the two sides of the river. Although the river is less than 50 metres wide, there is no bridge. And the chain boat, about 15 metres long, ferries a dozen cars and people across the river. Using a chain-drive system, the boat plods across the river, humming and groaning. Each ride costs 50 pence per person or £1.50 per car. Every time I waited for the chain boat, I couldn’t help but think, why don’t they just build a bridge? A stone arch bridge would save us from all these hurdles! It turned out I wasn’t alone in this thought. My Indian colleague Ashley thought the same. He remarked while shaking his head, “Before coming to Britain, I thought Britain was a developed country, but now I am riding on this piece of obsolete junk.” He came to the island because his wife started working as a GP here, and he had to find a job as a designer. I guess it’s part of life in England to complain a bit about the conservatism and stubbornness of the nation while also enjoying some of its perks. Bringing home fresh eggs from a colleague’s free-range chickens isn’t something I’ve been able to do anywhere else in the world.
I remember taking ferries to Gulangyu and Putuoshan, two scenic islands in China where no bridges are built for the sake of local ecosystems. But the chain boat between East and (West) Cowes has existed for decades for other reasons.
One day after work, I was waiting for the chain boat with my colleague Matthew. A sailboat with a high mast passed by, its sail billowing in the wind. The sailors waved to the chain-boat captain and the people on the lookout tower. The queue in front of the pier grew longer and longer. People waited patiently, watching or waving back at the sailors. Suddenly, I understood why there’s no bridge. Matthew explained, “A bridge would need to be high enough to let the vessels pass, which means a long ramp that would ruin the old buildings near the banks.” It’s not simply about building a bridge, but about the conservation of the historical landscape. If a bridge were ever built, it should be a drawbridge like Tower Bridge in London to let ships with high masts sail through.
When given the choice between convenience and tradition, the British almost always choose the latter. They won’t sacrifice anything that brings joy or holds value. Over time, I realised that the British prioritise maintaining a balance between progress and traditions over rapid development and efficiency.
In the UK, there’s a reluctance to change. Everything simply remains as it is. I’ve adopted a slower pace of life here, and am no longer stressed about project deadlines or product delivery times. I’ve also become more patient with commuting. When waiting for the ferry, I leisurely unfold my laptop, and occasionally glance out of the window to see the ferry and chain boat lazily approach, carrying me unhurriedly to the next destination in life.
About the author
Ji Yang is a Master of Science at Zhejiang University and has years of experience as a senior engineer in the energy industry. Yang started to live and work in the UK from 2017. She is fond of art and literature, and is keen on painting and freelance writing.
六年前的 6 月，我从北京飞到伦敦。那是我第一次来英国。当飞机盘旋在伦敦上空等待降落指令时，我努力望向窗外，寻找那些耳熟能详的伦敦地标，诸如伦敦眼、大本钟什么的，可事实上我什么也没看清楚。然而，我看到了一条河流，那正是泰晤士河，从东到西，曲曲折折，把伦敦分成两半。对于首次到访这座久负盛名的城市的人来说，任何一点细微提示，都能带来一丝熟悉的气息，让这座全然陌生的城市不那么冰冷。
第一次来伦敦，我在一家邮编为 SW5 的酒店住了一晚。在英国，邮编定义了地段和身份，甚至一切。这个邮编距离伦敦桥步行十分钟左右，120 英镑一晚，对我来说价格不菲，但在这个地段却是价格最便宜的酒店了。房间很小，我必须在打开行李箱和开门之间做出选择。
次日一早，我得知那晚并不是普通的一晚，那天正好是 2017年 6 月 3 日，伦敦桥发生了震惊世界的恐怖袭击事件，恐怖分子驾车冲进正在桥上行走的人群中，造成数人伤亡。我搭上从滑铁卢站开往南安普顿的火车，因为我此行的目的地是位于英国最南端的小岛——怀特岛。对于伦敦这座闻名遐迩的大都市，我还没来得及品味它的美妙和丰富，便带着惊恐和疑惑离开。
我坐船跑通勤的经历，要从南安普敦说起。南安普敦是汉普郡的首府，位于英格兰正南端，那里有渡轮通往怀特岛。
我暂时住在南安普敦火车站附近，放下行李后，我溜达到市中心，想顺便找人问一下明天在哪儿乘船。我挑了一位七十来岁、颇有英式绅士派头的老者，他看起来神清气爽，且乐于助人。我凭直觉判断他是本地人。那时我们站在南安普敦高街——西港（West Quay）和老城门之间一处下沉式广场中央。他指着城门外，也就是跟火车站相反方向，告诉我去港口（Town Quay）坐红烟囱（Red Funnel）。以我的英语词汇量（理工科英语六级水平），完全没能理解Town Quay 这个词的含义。我期望听到类似“港口”，像“dock”、“pier”、“jetty”、“harbour”、“port”、“marina”之类的词儿——总之是能上船的地方。然而，上面我会的几个词儿一个也没听到。首先，我没想到像南安普顿这样一座首府城市，在英文中居然只配称作一个 town。我后来才了解一个地方被称为镇（town），还是城市（city），主要在于那个地方是否有一个大教堂（Cathedral）。像温彻斯特，城市虽然比南安普敦小，但因有温彻斯特大教堂而被称为城市。“town”一词在我的理解中相当于中国 农村某乡的一个小镇，比如乌镇是一个“water town”。再则，在 我的英文词汇表里“quay”一词和“游客码头”没有挂上勾。另外， “Red Funnel”翻译出来是“红烟囱”、“红漏斗”，这个名称又是什么鬼？
当然，次日一早，我顺利地找到码头，在船运公司“红烟囱（Red Funnel）”售票处买了一张往返船票，及时登上了开往怀特岛的快艇。事实证明，这里远比我想象的要小得多，也方便得多。
怀特岛， 英文是“Isle of Wight”， 名称下面还有一行字： Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty，意为“杰出的自然风景区”。坐落在英国最南端，呈菱形。岛的北部与英格兰主岛之间隔着索伦特海峡（The Solent），南部隔着英吉利海峡与法国诺曼底隔海相望。一条名为麦地那河（River Medina）的潮汐河，长约 17 英里，从小岛北部流至怀特岛中心，把北部考斯镇分为（西）考斯（Cowes）和东考斯（East Cowes）。
终于，我在南安普敦安顿下来，开始了每周三次乘快艇或大渡轮的通勤日常。从南安普敦去怀特岛有两条路线：一是乘快艇（red jet）抵达对岸的（西）考斯镇，二是乘三层大渡轮——一层装货／车辆，二层坐人，三层看风景的渡轮——到达麦地那河东边的东考斯（East Cowes）。
因为我的工作地点在（西）考斯，也就是说，如果坐大船就必须穿过麦地那河。
第一天坐船上班，在约二十分钟的航程中，小船颠簸起伏，我看着窗外变换不定的天气，兴奋之余也感觉未来像海上的雾一样模糊不清。
一开始几周，为赶时间，我坐快艇。船上大多是通勤上班族。到站后，从码头出来便是（西）考斯的高街，一条黑色石头铺就的步行街，应该有些年头了，沧桑感迎面而来，在雨天里格外滑溜。在这样黑漆漆的石头路上走上个五六家店铺，看见歌诗达（Costa）咖啡馆、一家二手商店和玛莎食品超市，便要向右转，然后往西顺着海景路（Seaview Road）和旷野丛路（Moorgreen Road）蜿蜒向上而行，在第 54 栋处左转。起初，在看起来没啥区别的街道和矮房子之间穿行。保持不迷路的唯一办法，就是死记硬背那些马路名称和门牌号。
这跟我以往的工作经历可太不一样了。以前工作地在上海和北京，后来在迪拜。原先都是在这些发展中和准发达国家的高楼大厦里上班，现在来到了发达国家，却几经周折辗转，于一处孤立小岛上的荒僻小工业园区里蜗居。在英国，小公司或工厂都设在很小的工业园区里。我办公室隔壁是仓储区，对面是棒球厂，四周一望无际，步行不到十分钟就能看见海。
后来，几经权衡，我改坐慢船。在接下来的一年多里，我重复着这样的通勤路线：南安普顿镇码头 Southampton Town Quay—渡轮 Ferry—东考斯 East Cowes—锁链摆渡船（Chain Ferry）—（西）考斯 Cowes—办公室。一天之中穿过两次索伦特海峡，两次麦地那河。这听起来挺别致的，跑起来非常花时间。
如此一来更加周转折腾，时间从 20 分钟增加到一个小时，但好处也很明显。一是游轮稳妥安全。不像是快艇，遇到风浪就颠簸得厉害；遇大风就经常停运。二是成本低得多，买年票的话单程票价核算下来也不到 10 英镑。船上有 WiFi 可以工作，还有一个酒吧和观景台，这让我在上班途中时有度假的错觉。坐慢船跑通勤是受到跑通勤的同事马修的启发，除了时间长了个把小时，唯一不便之处就是我得再坐船过麦地那河。因为轮渡停东考斯，要去（西）考斯镇必须过河。
这就不得不搭乘连接麦地那河两岸之间唯一的交通工具——索链船（chain boat）。河虽不宽，不到 50 米，但没有桥。一条长约 15 米的汽船，可以把车开上去，能装十辆八辆，人车分流，船靠底部的铁链传动，慢吞吞轰隆隆地从此岸蹭到彼岸。票价每人每次 50 便士，若是驾车就要 1 英镑 50 便士。每次从大船下来，走几分钟再接着等船从对岸挪腾过来时，我都忍不住想，为什么就不能修座桥呢？在这里来座石拱桥岂不方便吗？后来发现不仅我这么想，印度同事阿时力也是这么想的。他把头摇得像拨浪鼓一样说道：“来英国以前认为英国是发达国家，没想到还在使用这么落后的破东西。”他因为老婆学医入职岛上全科医生，所以不得不在岛上找份设计师工作。享受度假式通勤方式的工作之余，抱怨一下英国的守旧和执拗，也是生活的一部分吧。毕竟下班时带上同事散养的鸡下的土鸡蛋回家也很惬意。
自从在岛上工作以来，我慢慢开始适应坐船上班的通勤生活。除了每次要准备午餐盒饭，我还带了一个宜家的马克杯用来喝茶。可不到两天，我发现行政部的黎明（Dawn）大姐正捧着我的杯子 在喝茶。她名字好听，人也热情。她自然地把我的杯子混入厨房茶杯大家庭里，用完放入洗碗机。可这不符合我一向的卫生习惯。那天后，我喝完茶没有把杯子放进洗碗机，而是洗了放回我的桌 子上，以免混用。几次后，黎明大姐便不再收我的杯子了。有时她泡茶时仍然问一句：“要不要来杯茶？”我看了看手边的杯子，说： “谢谢！不用了。”
在小快艇和大渡轮之间还有一个区别，乘快艇的大多是商旅人士，西装革履，气度不凡；而乘大船的人偏向休闲出行，车子停在下面甲板上，一家人背着行囊上楼坐定，有娃儿有狗，大人喝酒，孩子吵吵嚷嚷。怀特岛是英国人喜爱的度假胜地，有维多利亚女王的行宫奥斯本宫（Osborne House），针岩和岛屿得天独厚的自然景观。到了暑假，乘游轮来此度假的人日益增多。即使工作，我也不反感坐在人群中间，这反而让我在孤独的来来往往中感受一份热气腾腾的生活气息。
想起以前去鼓浪屿和普陀山两座岛时，也是排队坐船，岛与陆地间也没有修桥。据说这是为了保护岛上的自然生态，不过有渡轮开放。然而，这个在东、西考斯之间运营了几十年的索链船却另有原因。
一天下班后，我和马修一起等船，正赶上帆船经过，高达十几米的桅杆上挂着鼓涨的风帆沿河滑过，帆船上的水手一边向开索链船的船长致意，一边向瞭望塔楼上的人挥手致意。等待上船的车和人越积越多，大家都耐心等待，招手或行注目礼。我似乎一下子明白了不修桥原因。马修说：“如果修桥，桥体就要足够高。桥体高，引桥也就跟着变长。而长引桥又会破坏所经之处的那些老建筑。”原来造桥事小，“文保”事大。恐怕若是真的造桥，也要像伦敦塔桥那样，能适时开合，允许高桅杆帆船经过才行。
在方便通行与让帆船经过这件事上，英国人的选择显而易见，没有人想放弃任何带来快乐和有价值的东西。慢慢地，我发现英国人在价值排序上，发展和效益远不如均衡重要。
在英国，似乎没有人想改变什么。一切从旧如简。慢慢地我也适应了慢节奏，工程进度不再十万火急，产品交付期无论是90天，还是180天，也不再令我抓狂。有一天，我忽然发现，不知从什么时候开始，我已不再坚持使用自己的杯子喝茶。在通勤这件事上，我也变得更有耐心。在那些等待的时间里，我也能像马修那样，悠然地打开电脑，偶尔望向窗外，看渡轮和索链船缓缓靠近，载着我，不慌不忙向着生活的下一个目的地缓缓驶去。
作者介绍
纪杨，曾在能源行业任高级工程师数年。热爱艺术与文学，目前专职绘画、自由撰稿。
Both the Chinese and English editions of Haha! Britain can be purchased at the following platforms:
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